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Can-Am Commander 1000 Atlas Pro 1.5" Forward Offset A-Arms

Gives you room for 31” tires without a lift
$584.95 - $1,164.75

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TIG Welded
Lifetime warranty
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Warranty & Returns
WARRANTY

SuperATV offers the premium product on the market and extends the industry's best warranty to go with it.

Installation Instructions
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
View and download the instructions on how to install this part for your machine.
Virtual Mechanic
VIRTUAL MECHANIC
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Warranty & Returns

TERMS OF WARRANTY
SuperATV offers premium products and extends one of the industry's best warranties to go with them. Each A-arm carries a Lifetime warranty against manufacturing defects to the original purchaser, for the period and subject to the terms stated on our Warranty Policy page. Ball joints and tie rod ends are considered wear and tear items and do not carry a Lifetime Warranty.

For complete warranty details see our Warranty Policy page.

How-To Video

How to Install SuperATV's Atlas Pro Forward Offset A-arms on a Can-Am Commander

Braden is going to get you set up, but showing you how to install our Atlas Pro A-arms. Your Can-Am Commander 1000 will never be the same once you get our 1.5" diameter tubed arms on your ride. We use 1.5" diameter tubing, which is a whopping half inch bigger than stock and a quarter inch bigger than our standard offset A-arms. Plus, they’re finished with a UV-resistant powder coating to boost durability and corrosion resistance. They’re the biggest, toughest A-arms we’ve ever made and the best you can get for your Can-Am Commander. 00:26 – Tool List 00:36 – Remove front wheel and tire 01:06 – Remove GDP Portals or stock hub 01:29 – Remove cotter pin from GDP Portal 02:07 – Remove brake caliper 02:27 – Remove Brake Line from A-arm 03:10 -- Remove hub 04:02 – Remove reses nut of GDP Portal 04:20 – Disconnect the tie rod. 04:38 – Disconnect the sway bar link 05:17 – Remove shock 05:23 -- Use ratchet strap to support the axel 06:28 -- Remove bolt to lower A-arm 06:58 – Use rubber mallet to tap lose lower A-arm 07:18 – Remove sway bar link from driver side 07:51 – Crank ratchet strap at maximum height to extend axel 08:47 – Tap axel lose with socket and pull straight out 09:07 – Lay axel on tie rod to keep from hanging 09:29 – Flip knuckle around remove cotter pin from portal 10:10 – Loosen nut for upper ball joint 10:32 – Loosen nut from ball joint by tapping with two hammers 10:50 – Remove nut from ball joint and remove portal or hub 11:10 – Remove upper A-arm 12:45 -- Remove Lower A-arm 13:32 – Tools used to press ball joints 14:31 – Press out ball joints from lower A-arm 16:00 – Press ball joints to new lower A-arm 16:46 – Attach snap ring to ball joint 17:21 -- Press ball joint from upper A-arm 18:21 – Clean any dirty ball joint with WD40 19:19 – press ball joint into new upper A-arm 20:00 – Install bushing into the A-arms 20:51 – Install grease Zerk into A-arms 22:35 – Install lower A-arm 23:50 – Install upper A-arm 24:54 – Install knuckle or portal to upper A-Arm 26:17 – Install cotter pin to ball joint thread 27:05 – Re-install axel to portal or knuckle 27:36 – Install lower A-Arm 28:35 – reinstall recess nut to portal 29:38 – Reattach tie rod 29:56 – Install cotter pin to tie rod 30:36 – Remove ratchet strap 30:41 – Reattach shock to upper A-arm 31:12 – Install factory hub or hub rotor assembly 31:20 – Reattach brake caliper 32:20 – Install cotter pin to hub rotor assembly 32:48 – Reattach brake line 33:15 – Repeat steps on opposite side and reinstall sway bar link. 34:20 – Re-install wheels and tires 35:10 – Set machine back on the ground and roll it out and check camber Ready to get your Atlas Pro A-arms? Visit superatv.com... https://www.superatv.com/can-am-commander-1000-atlas-pro-1-5-inch-forward-offset-a-arms